First stop: Bruges, Belgium, which at the end of the 14th century was the commercial capital of northern Europe. Then its population was about 40,000, including hundreds of merchants from all over Europe—Italy, Germany, England, and of course Flanders. Spices and dyes were imported from the Levant via Italy; wool was brought in from England and Scotland to supply the Flemish textile industry; wine came northward from France and Portugal; lumber, furs and occasionally wheat were imported from the Baltic region. In addition to cloth, Bruges exported religion, or at least thousands of small, beautifully illustrated prayer books. Commerce requires credit, so Bruges was a major banking center, second only to Florence.
The city’s stature peaked in 1400; it has been downhill ever since. Which is a good thing, because its ornate medieval architecture and intricate network of canals have survived intact, making it one of the most picturesque cities in Europe. When in doubt, medieval architects always added the extra embellishment—a gilded bear here, an ornate wrought iron sconce there, an angel standing in a corner alcove, a dragon staring down from above a doorway, a narrow tower to give the building a more interesting profile.
Even better than the architecture is the food. The citizens of Bruges seem to subsist on a diet of Belgian chocolate, whipped cream, French fries, and beer. Yet no one gets fat. I discovered why one chilly morning. To commute to work, few people walk, and even fewer people drive cars; everyone is riding bicycles or—if they have a couple of small children—a bicycle hooked up to a miniature two-seated rickshaw. Belgians take their bicycles very seriously. All the train stations have parking lots for bicycles, which look like shiny junkyards if you whizz by them at 120 MHP in a bullet train. Bicycles are one reason why, in Belgium, per capita energy consumption is only 78% of the U.S. level; in the Netherlands it is even lower at 70%.
Zabar’s on a Truck
Wednesday was market day in the Markt—the giant central square, ringed by imposing medieval buildings and paved with (what else?) Belgian blocks. But there was nothing quaint or old-fashioned about this farmer’s market. No rickety tables with a limited selection of fruits, veggies and useless crafts. No no no. Overnight, a fleet of trailers had invaded the Markt and turned it into a high-class supermarket. Comparable vehicles don’t exist in America. An entire side of the trailer is opened up to reveal a complete deli counter, at least as big as the Zabar’s meat department. One trailer was a bakery; several others sold cheese; still others sold pork and beef, barbecued chickens, candy, and flowers.
Clearly this superb selection of fresh foods, conveniently available in the center of town, poses tough competition to the local stores. U.S. investors should pay close attention. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, there are 8,200 farmers markets in the U.S., up 76% since 2008. Many of them already sell a wide variety of foods, beyond the familiar fruits and vegetables. If these markets become as sophisticated as Belgian markets, that’s very bad news for Safeway, Wal-Mart, Whole Foods and Kroger.
Here Come the Americans
Bruges’ tourist business was thriving in mid-March, and few of the visitors were from the U.S. When Americans take advantage of the weak Euro this summer, the town will be mobbed with tourists. Two or three full days are enough to see the city, including a couple of superb small art museums, in a leisurely manner. Fair warning: In the summer heat, the canals stink of duck shit, but at least that enhances the medieval ambience.
Copyright Thomas Doerflinger 2015. All Rights Reserved.
